horse carriage ,riding knowlege and information

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Catch your mini using the halter and lead rope.

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You want to get your mini accustom to the cart before you hook him up. In order to get your mini use to the cart have your extra set of hands either hold the horse or pull the cart around the horse. Make sure you pull it in front beind and both sides of the little horse. Once the mini settles down and accepts the cart moving all around her you can stop pulling it.

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The next thing to do is lift the shafts up over the mini’s back. Remeber what you do on one side you must do on the other side. Once the mini has accepted the shafts being placed on his back. You are good to go to the next step.

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Now that the mini has been aquainted with the cart around it. You can pull the cart up to where the mini is inbetween the shafts. Do this step a few times until the mini has settled down and accepted the cart behind him.

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Now you can place the harness on the mini. Get him ready like you were fixing to go out for a Sunday drive.

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Repeat all the steps above before hooking up. Once you are comfortable with your mini being relaxed and paying no mind to the cart. Hook him up.

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Have the other person or yourself lead the mini around with the cart hooked up. Continue this step until the mini is completely comfortable about pulling the cart.

Gather all your tools and materials together before beginning work on the project.

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Draft the wheel pattern for the carriage. Draw two circles on paper, with the diameter about the same as the height of the pumpkin, and cut them out. Draw another two circles of similar size on some stiff cardboard and cut them out too.

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Glue the paper circles onto the cutout cardboard circles. Spread some newspapers in a well ventilated area (preferably outdoors) and spray paint the wheels white. Leave them out to dry.

4

Outline the spokes, axle and rim of each wheel with gold glitter or gold braids.

Draw spokes, axles and rims on each circle with a pencil. Paint over the pencil outlines with gold glitter. Alternatively, “draw” a line of white glue along each outline and then sprinkle some glitter onto the glue. Set the wheels aside to dry. You can even hot-glue gold braids around the rim of each wheel once they are dry.

5

Use a sharp knife to carve a circular piece out of the top of the pumpkin, cutting around the stem to remove it. Scoop out and clean the inside thoroughly. Make sure to remove all of the seeds and then rinse out the pumpkin.

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Draw arched windows and a door onto the outside of the pumpkin. Mark the position for each wheel. Use your sharp knife to cut out each window and the door from the pumpkin, taking care to be as neat as possible.

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Use the craft tacks to trim the edges of the arched windows and door with gold braid. Attach the wheels to the pumpkin carriage with upholstery tacks.

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Decorate the carriage for even more whimsical detail. Glue faux diamonds and sequins around the carriage to add even more sparkle, magic and enchantment to your storybook creation.

Many people are interested in buiding their own horse wagon.Now you could see some instruction following:

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Go to your local library and look for books about the construction of horse-drawn wagons. Try to get books that cover as wide a variation of these vehicles as you can manage so you can pick and choose a deign when you build your own horse drawn wagon.

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Look for existing wagons that are located in working historical farms, museums, or even private collections.

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Visit the wagons that are held in the collections you researched, and get as close to them as you can manage-with the owner’s permission. Study the way the joints are fashioned, the use of the steel, the manner in which the wood is laid. If you explain that you are attempting to build a horse drawn wagon, you may find that the owners of the wagon may allow you some leeway–within reason–regular patrons may not receive.

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Decide what kind of wood you would like to use when you build a horse drawn wagon. Wood varies in each part of the country. For example, oak is found in many Northeastern wagons, whereas hickory is found in many Southeastern wagons. If you choose to go the historical route when building a wagon, you might wish to choose a wood that was used in your part of the country. If not, use whatever wood you like best.

You could see some for reference: H&S horse wgon

Start with a cart body. Choose either a flatbed platform or an enclosed box, wider than the dog that will pull it. For a large dog such as a Newfoundland, a stable width is 24 inches; 18 inches will work but could be more “tippy.” Build the cart body out of lightweight wood, plastic, or even PVC pipe (see Resources). Or you can use a pre-made garden cart or child’s wagon for your cart body. The latter two come with wheels and axles attached.

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For an un-wheeled cart body, you will need to attach the axle and wheels at the midpoint of the platform or slightly forward, in order for the weight in the cart to be supported by the wheels and axle, not the dog’s harness. The dog should not need to lift the weight in the cart as well as pull it; he should have very little weight pressing on his back. Bicycle wheels, wheelchair wheels and pneumatic wheelbarrow tires all make good choices for dog pull-cart wheels.

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Next, you need to attach shafts to the cart body that sit parallel to the ground and parallel to the plane of the cart bed when attached to the dog’s harness. The main function of the shaft is for steering the cart. The shafts will attach to the dog’s harness at the dog’s shoulder-height at one end, and to the cart bed at the other end. This necessitates creating two bends in the shaft to raise the shaft from cart-bed level to dog-shoulder level.
You will find this step easiest if you remove the wheels and set the cart bed on a flat, level surface. Measure from the dog’s harness at the shoulder to the ground. Subtract the radius of your wheels and you will have the proper height for the rise of the shafts for this step. (On a wagon, the shafts can be diagonal from the ball-joint of the wagon handle connection to the dog’s shoulders, because the wagon’s four wheels stabilize the weight.) Make sure you make the shafts long enough to give the dog room to run without the cart touching his back legs. Measure the dog from his chest to the back of his rear leg under his tail. Add to this number over half the distance measured from the shoulder harness to the ground, for kick room.

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Allow the dog to pull the cart empty before attempting a load, to get him used to the sound and feeling.

Do an internet search for “horse carts” and click on a few sites to find pictures and suppliers. The Amish people build and sell traditional carts and wagons. Others build pony carts, llama carts, dog carts, goat carts, etc. A few minutes spent here or in the library will give you lots of ideas. If you want to buy horse cart or horse carriages,you could find on H&S Horse cart ,It is a professional horse cart manufacturer in China

3.

The most difficult part will be obtaining the measurements, specifications, and dimensions for the cart you wish to build. Basically, you need to know how much weight you plan to carry and how big is your “engine”. How tall is your horse? How long is he? How wide is he?
There are “horsy” terms involved in all of this, like “hands”, “withers”, “flank” and “shoulder” and “brisket”, etc. but you will need “inches” to come up with the dimensions for your cart.

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Your cart will consist of a few basic parts. Lets start with the seat. I suggest a bench seat with a back. Make it out of three-quarter inch marine plywood and upholster it with foam and vinyl. It should be about four feet wide for two people. It needs to be pretty much weather proof. It should have metal bracing and mounting fixtures so that it can bolt to the frame. Take measurements from your favorite office chair to get an idea for seat width and back height. It should provide decent lumbar support if you are actually going to ride on it for long periods of time. There are no requirements for seat belts so far as I know–and I’m not sure you want to be strapped in anyway. Never saw a saddle with a seat belt, but who knows nowadays.

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There will be two wheels. I suggest rubber-tired wire-spoke wheels, like motorcycle wheels. You could also use large utility wheels from the hardware store or light automotive wheels and front axles from the junk yard. The critical part is the strength of the axles and how they can be mounted to the frame. I suggest welding the axles in each end of a pipe or tube that can be clamped under the frame. For suspension we will depend on the rubber tires and padding on the seat. Additional shock absorption can be accomplished the old fashioned way with springs under the seat like the old fashioned buck board wagons or stage coaches. Putting springs between the axle and the frame introduces another degree of complexity for the home builder. The axles probably need to be at least three quarter inch diameter steel.

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Now we come to the frame. I suggest one-by-two inch rectangular steel tube although round tube or angle iron will also work. The round tube looks very nice but it requires the ability to make fish-mouth welded joints. Angle iron must be heavier because it does not resist twisting as well as square or round tube. Aluminum alloy materials will make a very nice light frame but welding aluminum is problematic for the home builder. I suggest a simple square or rectangular frame with attachment points for the seat on top and the axle underneath. If either the seat or the axle can be adjusted frontwards or backwards, it will facilitate balancing the completed rig. Clamps probably work better than drilling holes through the frame. Holes will weaken it. You will need a place to rest your feet. Perforated metal or plywood mounted on the front portion of the frame will work fine.

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Now we have a comfortable seat on a stiff frame on two easy-rolling wheels. How do we hook up to the horse? We need staves attached to each side of the frame and wide enough apart for the horse to fit in between comfortably. Smooth, round tube is nice for these. They must be long enough to extend beyond the horse’s front shoulders. Your horse needs some room behind him. You sure don’t want your cart running up and bumping him in the hind legs on a downhill section of road. That might cause all kinds of trouble. The staves should be parallel to the ground and about as high as your horse’s belly. You don’t want him stepping over them or bumping them with his legs. That will also cause trouble. Since your horse’s belly is probably higher than your frame, you will need to figure out how you are going to mount the staves to the frame. The attachment point needs to be quite strong and rigid since all forces generated by the horse must transfer to the cart through these two fittings. A gusset-type fitting welded on the end of the staves and bolted to a similar fitting on the frame will allow for some adjustment in height for different size horses. A small dashboard structure between the staves on top of the frame can provide additional bracing as well as keeping your horse’s hind feet from coming inside with you in an exuberant moment. Don’t forget to use the geometry of triangles to provide strength at needed points.

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The final part has to do with how your horse’s harness and collar attach to the staves. You will need some eye bolts and/or rings welded to the stave to attach your harness fixtures. Your harness will use a collar and/or a breast strap for the horse to push against. There should be a butt strap of some sort so that he can hold the cart back in downhill situations. His harness will have some sort of back strap arrangement to hold everything level and in place.

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Now you have the complete cart except that it is not very pretty. All the rough welded places must be smoothed up with a grinder and then it needs to be painted with a good enamel or lacquer suitable for outdoor conditions. Make sure there are no exposed sharp edges or pointy places that could hurt your horse.